November 14, 2024
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The History and Legacy of ic! berlin Eyewear

9 min read May 9, 2024 Irene K.
The History and Legacy of ic! berlin Eyewear

Today, only a few brands attain the status of ic! berlin (pronounced “eye-see-Berlin”), a symbol of sophistication and allure. This German manufacturer has created a lasting brand through a commitment to absolute quality, boundary-breaking innovation, and fashion leadership. Hidden in each frame, there is a fascinating story that commemorates the brand’s legacy and simultaneously marks the beginning of a new, audacious, and visionary era.

Inception and Founding

In 1996, a trio of visionaries – Ralph Anderl, Philipp Haffmans, and Harald Gottschling – came together with a groundbreaking idea for screwless sheet metal eyewear. Recognizing the potential of this innovative concept, they established HGA Gesellschaft and launched the brand ic! brille (later renamed ic! berlin in late 1997).

Ralph Anderl
Ralph Anderl
Harald Gottschling
Harald Gottschling
Philipp Haffmans
Philipp Haffmans

The founding principles of the ic! berlin brand were rooted in a commitment to pushing boundaries and challenging traditional eyewear design. Their first eyewear model, ‘Jack’, weighing a mere 20 grams, was a bold statement, with an initial run of just 50 pieces. This lightweight, aluminum, and screwless became the cornerstone of the brand’s identity, setting it apart from competitors and revolutionizing the eyewear market.

From humble beginnings in a small apartment with a shop front in Berlin-Mitte, ic! berlin quickly gained traction. In 2005, the brand relocated to the nearby Backfabrik, a move that facilitated their growth and expansion. While Haffmans and Gottschling focused on design and production, Anderl took charge of finance, organization, and distribution, establishing a strong foundation for the company’s success.

However, in 2003, the trio parted ways, with Anderl remaining as the sole Managing Director of ic! berlin, holding the respectable title “sheet-metal-glasses-salesman.” What’s even more interesting, Harald Gottschling and Philipp Haffmans embarked on a new venture. Joining forces with Daniel Haffmans and Moritz Krüger, they founded MYKITA, another eyewear brand. The brand’s commitment to innovation and artistic expression was further solidified in 2013 when German artist and entertainer Friedrich Lichtenstein took up residency at ic! berlin as an ornamental hermit, adding a unique cultural dimension to the company’s ethos.

Ralph Anderl and Friedrich Liechtenstein
Ralph Anderl and Friedrich Liechtenstein

Ralph readily acknowledges the support of prominent figures in the eyewear industry, including Robert La Roche, Alain Mikli, and Lindberg, who have praised his innovative styling. Reflecting on past mistakes, Ralph recalls a time when the company veered away from hands-on design work, opting instead to hire creative designers lacking a practical understanding of the manufacturing process. He observes that many traditional fashion brands have become fixated solely on surface aesthetics, often producing aesthetically pleasing frames in stylish offices, detached from the intricacies of the design process.

Brand’s Culture

At ic! berlin, open communication is the lifeblood that fuels collaboration and innovation. Hierarchies are fluid, and ideas can flow freely, allowing team members to contribute their thoughts and challenge conventions without fear. This openness cultivates an atmosphere of trust and respect, where diverse viewpoints are not only welcomed but actively sought after.

Many of the brand’s designs necessitate specialized machinery for frame production, like the recently developed milling machine tailored for crafting the shield ic! berlin sunglasses. Ralph Anderl regards this as an investment, asserting that maintaining in-house manufacturing capabilities is preferable to outsourcing to potentially unreliable third-party sources. 

ic! berlin Shield sunglasses
ic! berlin Shield sunglasses

Anderl ensures distribution reliability by maintaining at least two suppliers for all necessary materials. Despite skepticism regarding the commercial feasibility of housing a frame manufacturing facility in Berlin, he believes this has been pivotal in establishing ic! berlin’s sterling reputation. Anderl emphasizes that the essence of the ic! berlin’s ethos is deeply rooted in simplicity. He states,

‘Our hinge design is very pure and the way the business works is very much the same – focused.’

ic! Berlin’s Influence On The Industry

ic! berlin has undoubtedly left an indelible mark on the eyewear industry, revolutionizing industry practices, setting higher consumer expectations, and influencing eyewear trends over the years. One of the brand’s most significant contributions is its innovative hinge system, which locks the temple to the front without the need for screws, bolts, glues, or gimmicks. This unique feature allows for quick and easy removal and reattachment of lenses and temples, setting a new standard for quality and functionality in eyewear design.

Screwless hinge system
Screwless hinge system

The impact of this pioneering hinge system has been far-reaching. Competitors have been forced to adapt and offer similar solutions to keep up with consumer demand for seamless, high-quality frames. Industry reports indicate that the adoption of screwless and hingeless designs by major eyewear brands increased by a staggering 25% between 2010 and 2020, directly influenced by ic! berlin’s groundbreaking technology.

Moreover, ic! berlin’s emphasis on blending luxury, performance, and unique design elements has significantly shaped consumer preferences and raised the bar for the entire industry. The brand’s collaboration with Mercedes-AMG, for instance, featured powerful shapes, strong color contrasts, and unexpected details such as window cut-outs and complex material combinations. This fashion-forward approach has not only captured the attention of style-conscious consumers but has also inspired competitors to innovate and elevate their own offerings to meet the evolving demands of the market.

The insights from the Vision Council 2024 research highlight the importance of factors such as frame fitting issues in the purchasing decisions of consumers. For those encountering fitting challenges, fashion and brand considerations may become less significant compared to individuals who have no fit issues. This finding underscores the significance of functionality and comfort in eyewear selection, which aligns with ic! berlin’s emphasis on innovative hinge systems and modular designs aimed at ensuring optimal fit and wearability.

Furthermore, ic! berlin’s impact extends beyond the realm of design and functionality. The brand has played a pivotal role in raising consumer expectations for durability and longevity in eyewear products. The brand’s “Injection” collection, featuring frames made from a single piece of high-quality, lightweight plastic using a specialized injection molding process, has set a new standard for virtually indestructible and flexible eyewear.

Iconic Moments and Celebrity Endorsements

Since the very beginning, ic! berlin has engaged in exciting undertakings with outstanding designers, igniting the spirit of ingenuity and style in eyewear. In addition, the brand has entered into a partnership with the visionaries including Kix, A Bathing Ape, Luisa Hecking, and others, which led to collections that merged art and creativity. The collaborations not only help in expanding of the ic! berlin’s visions but also enhance the position of this enterprise in the world of fashionable eyewear.

ic! berlin’s iconic unyielding devotion to excellence and creativity has been the reason behind many awards and recognitions that the center has received since its foundation. The brand has been widely recognized by both industry experts and enthusiasts for its excellence. From the most prestigious Golden Silmo Eyewear Award to Eyewear of the Year awards at events like IOFT in Tokyo, the brand has gained the recognition it deserves. These awards bear witness to ic! berlin’s unflagging devotion to surpassing the eyewear industry design limits and becoming an outstanding standard in the market.

The international allure and cultural importance of ic! berlin glasses is proven by the fact that many celebrities, including artists and sportsmen, also wear these models. From Hollywood stars to fashion icons, ic! berlin has, in its fold, made a niche for itself among the elite. Brand ambassadors like Justin Chambers, Hugh Grant, and Chris Rock were spotted sporting ic! berlin spectacles, adding to the label’s edge and reputation. Their endorsement is a statement of the product’s timeless appeal and quality ic! berlin craftmanship.

Hugh Grant
Hugh Grant
Justin Chambers
Justin Chambers
Chris Rock
Chris Rock

ic! Berlin Today

In November of 2023, it was reported that Marcolin had finalized the acquisition of ic! berlin. Today, ic! berlin stands as a global eyewear powerhouse, with over 180 employees worldwide and subsidiaries in Berlin, New York, and Tokyo. The brand’s recent move from its Backfabrik location to a larger facility in the Marzahn-Hellersdorf district of Berlin reflects its continued growth and success. The brand’s products can be found in Canada, Europe, Australia, Asia, and other parts of the world. With a legacy built on groundbreaking designs and cutting-edge manufacturing techniques, the company remains at the forefront of innovation, consistently delivering products that capture the essence of style and functionality.

Countries that cooperate with the brand
Countries that cooperate with the brand
ic! berlin main workshop
ic! berlin main workshop
Marcolin Acquires ic! berlin
Marcolin Acquires ic! berlin

In conjunction with its fresh designs, ic! berlin unveiled a novel clamping mechanism encircling the frame’s front, visible from every angle. This feature facilitates a sophisticated and contemporary juxtaposition between the front piece and the temples. 

New clamping mechanism
New clamping mechanism

In 2024, ic! berlin introduced a highly anticipated capsule collection in collaboration with the esteemed fashion designer Bibhu Mohapatra. This partnership showcased the brand’s ability to transcend traditional eyewear design and expand its offerings with new, fashion-forward highlights. The collection seamlessly blended Mohapatra’s bold aesthetic with ic! berlin’s signature attention to detail and commitment to quality, resulting in a line of eyewear that truly embodied the convergence of fashion and function.

Bibhu 01
Bibhu 01
The Veil
The Veil
Lace Visor
Lace Visor

In another exciting development, ic! berlin announced its partnership with acclaimed actor Daniel Brühl as the brand ambassador for 2024. This collaboration exemplifies the brand’s commitment to innovation and style, marking an exciting chapter for ic! berlin. Brühl’s reputation for quality and success, both nationally and globally, aligns seamlessly with the brand’s ethos, reinforcing its position as a forward-thinking company that sets trends in the eyewear industry.

Daniel Brühl
Daniel Brühl

These partnerships are not only a testament to ic! berlin’s ability to attract high-profile collaborators but also a highlight of the brand’s dedication to fostering relationships with individuals who share its passion for excellence and its commitment to pushing boundaries.

As the year progresses, ic! berlin continues to surprise and delight its loyal customer base with new product launches and innovative collaborations. The brand’s unwavering commitment to design, quality, and innovation has solidified its position as a leader in the eyewear industry, inspiring competitors and setting new standards for what is possible in the realm of eyewear design and manufacturing.